Michigan Beer’s Next Leaders

The places, priorities, and people guiding the industry’s future in the "great beer state"

In a matter of a couple of weeks to start 2022, two of the biggest names in Michigan beer partially or fully scaled back their leadership roles with their respective breweries.  First, Larry Bell, president and founder of Bell’s Brewery in Kalamazoo, retired in January after 38 years. And Mike Stevens, co-founder - with Dave Engbers in 1997 - and CEO of Founders Brewing Co. in Grand Rapids, announced he would step aside as CEO but would remain company president.

Bell and Engbers have a combined 60+ years of experience, and despite their different approaches, together they laid the foundation for making Michigan the “great beer state”.  (With 408 breweries to date, it currently ranks 6th in the country.)  Some of the highest rated beers in the world are made by these two breweries. Based on 2021 production statistics, Founders ranked nationally as the 13th largest brewery and Bell’s as the 15th largest.  Bell, 64, retired as part of the sale to Australian-based Lion Little World Beverages, Inc., a division of Japan’s Kirin Holdings Co. Ltd. And Stevens’ news became public more than two years after Founders sold 90 percent of its operations to Spanish beer company Mahou San Miguel. Several more mergers, buyouts and partial sales positioned New Holland Brewing Co. - which cracked the Brewers Association’s Top 50 breweries in 2020 - into the top spot as the largest, independent brewery in the state.

(Jason and Kris Spaulding, Brewery Vivant, Grand Rapids)
Jason and Kris Spaulding opened Brewery Vivant in Grand Rapids in 2010. Brewery Vivant helped set the bar for sustainable practices and garnered several awards along the way. Jason, who serves on the Board of Directors for the Michigan Brewers Guild, said the Bell’s news hit particularly hard and called it the “end of an era."

"There’s so much that’s changing, it’s hard to keep track of what’s going on out there. Those are the voices we’ve listened to for a while. Now what?” Jason said.

Change is a natural occurrence in an industry maturing after a 10-year explosion (roughly 2007 through 2017), when so many new breweries opened across the state and the larger operations sold beer at a phenomenal rate. Michigan beer continues to shift and evolve, particularly as business owners try to navigate the post-pandemic landscape:  ever-shifting drinking habits and trends, staffing shortages and rising costs.  Notable partial acquisitions and ownership changes in recent years include Atwater Brewing Co., Dark Horse Brewing Co., Short’s Brewing Co. and Perrin Brewing Co., among others.

David Ringler, owner of Cedar Springs Brewing Co. and a member of the MI Brewers Guild, said there are constant conversations about the next wave of Michigan beer leaders.

“I'm very hesitant to name names, but I think we're seeing some new voices emerge, and importantly, some of the existing voices welcome them. No industry is without challenges, but I think the 'craft' world, by its nature, has been relatively self-aware and engaging - albeit sometimes awkwardly - in our challenges to embrace new and diverse voices. We've seen emerging brands like HOMES, City Built, Guardian, Old Nation, Pigeon Hill and others enter the scene with some presence, but ‘leadership’ tends to evolve over time,” Ringler said.

We talked to some brewery owners and members of the industry to compile a list of Michigan beer’s next generation of leaders – both individual personalities and colorful brewery cultures – who are poised to keep things exciting. We also spotlighted breweries fostering change on issues of diversity, sustainability, affordable housing and more.

The leaders are broken down into three categories:

• The Places: Brewery environments that are somewhat understated but getting the attention of beer drinkers based on creative business models, unique cultures and envelope-bending beverages.
• The Priorities: These are businesses that effectively and meaningfully embrace philanthropic efforts, environmental practices, community enhancement and social justice causes.
• The People: Knowledgeable and colorful personalities whose presence and perspective help inspire peers, customers and the industry to be different.

Watermark Brewing Co. owners are, from left, David Cockell, Justin Schaul and Chris Mason

Watermark Brewing Co.,
Stevensville 
Beer should be fun and few teams are more entertaining than Watermark’s Chris Mason, Justin Schaul, David Cockell and Co. Led by another group of relatively young co-founders, Watermark embraces the lakeshore vibe it calls home. Vintage motorcycles, diver’s helmets and RVs; an epic mullet; and a slew of other kitschy items make their way into the brewery’s brilliant promotional videos and social media. The entryway vending machine alone is worth the visit. The beer and people make you come back.

Transient Brewing Co., Bridgman
Nearly everything you need to know about Transient – one of        three outstanding breweries in tiny Bridgman (population just over 2,000 people) – is its popular Buckley Day. Dubbed the “star” of Southwest Michigan’s beer scene by the Chicago Tribune, Owner/brewer Chris Betts’ dog and brewery mascot, Buckley, is celebrated with a series of unique beers that are released in May. The event is usually greeted with lines of people waiting to get their, um, paws on Transient’s latest experiment. And this is only the tip of what this brewery is all about.

Brickside Brewery, Copper Harbor
Located at the tip of the Upper Peninsula, Jason Robinson’s          brewery, which opened in 2011, is exactly what you’d want            from a business often buried under immense amounts of snow for large chunks of the year. When he’s not putting out fires and saving lives as a first responder, Robinson produces handcrafted beer behind a thick sense of humor. Whether its a hand-written sign on the door explaining that a local emergency means the brewery won’t be open normal hours that day or his matter-of-fact posts on Facebook, it’s good stuff. (Facebook post example: “Jason is bartending. We have gotten complaints. He will not learn…If you want the Disney customer service experience, go to a casino.”)

Odd Side Ales, Grand Haven
Chris Michner and his team have more than 12 years under their belts making sweet fermented music in a former piano factory building. On a foundation of award-winning beers and playful names (Dank Juice, the medal-garnering Hipster Brunch, and more), Odd Side completed several recent expansion projects and was among the first to jump into the hard seltzer sector.  The 7,000-square-foot taproom makes for a refreshing, airy atmosphere for finding your next favorite drink.


THE PRIORITIES
Short’s Brewing Co. and affordable housing for staff and community
In the spring, Short’s Brewing Co. announced it purchased the      nearby 26-unit Bellaire Inn to renovate the building to provide      affordable housing for its staff and community members. The      northern Michigan town, which was largely put on the map            thanks to Joe Short’s brewery that opened there in 2004, lacked    housing options for seasonal employees, so the brewery took      matters into its own hands.

Eastern Market Brewing Co. and DEI dedication 
Eastern Market was among the first of its peers to be praised for its commitment to diversity, equity and inclusion.  A major example of this:  located in the popular Eastern Market district of Detroit, the brewery partners with the city, the Detroit Branch of the NAACP and others for the Rhythm & Art Block Party as part of a wider Juneteenth celebration.  EMBC produces specialty beers for the event, including most recently the Jubilee Gold, a peach golden ale done in collaboration with The Brewz Brothaz and Juneteenth Jubilee Detroit.  Sales of the beer went to support Plowshares Theatre Company.  The Code of Conduct page on the company's website is another example of the extra effort EMBC takes on these issues.

Farm breweries and sustainability, organic farming
The state is dotted with breweries located on farms, and these      companies are showing some inspiring sustainability efforts and organic farming practices. Brewery Terra Firma  and Farm Club in Traverse City, River St. Joe in Buchanan, and Waypost Brewing Co. in Saugatuck are just a few examples of rural breweries utilizing what the land around them provides – from honey and maple sap to fruit and herbs.

One Well Brewing and its embrace of local artists
It’s nothing new for breweries to utilize local artists in their            spaces, but One Well Brewing has gone a few steps further. The murals and label art come from Kalamazoo’s Mike Klok (Stuff Brain Studio); the wooden bar, tables and chairs and other elements are courtesy of Bad Adz Wood Co.  The expanded patio boasts mural work that makes the space pop as you pull in, and a variety of artists also display their art for sale on the brewery walls.

Griffin Claw Brewing Co. and recycling efforts
It takes a ton of thought, effort and logistics to take the extra        steps this Birmingham-based brewery has made to ensure its      used can handles are properly recycled. Behind some                    thoughtful community education and partnerships, the                brewery encourages customers and brewery friends to deliver their plastic handles to its location. Once the proper quantity is collected (and it’s a lot), they turn over the plastic to be recycled.

Bell’s Brewery and water quality initiatives 
Although Larry Bell retired from the brewery, the legacy of            water quality and protecting local and state water sources remains a priority.  The Comstock brewery is a member organization on several water-related committees and organizations, and its wastewater treatment facility is a rarity in the state.

Mitten Brewing Co. and mental health
Mitten Brewing Co. in Grand Rapids has long led the way in            Michigan beer for its philanthropic efforts. The brewery’s Mitten    Foundation, launched in 2012, has helped raise more than            $350,000 for other non-profit organizations. In the last year, co-    founder Chris Andrus turned his attention to mental health,          including releasing “Things We Don’t Say IPA” to raise                      awareness and fund counseling for employees.

THE PEOPLE
Kim Collins, Guardian Brewing, Saugatuck
Kim Collins, co-owner at Guardian Brewing Co., Saugatuck
Kim Collins and her partner, Kate Bishop, co-own Michigan’s first and only LGBTQ- and women-owned brewery. The duo opened the business in 2018 and have quickly ascended to leadership roles in the state. With backgrounds in education, hospitality and outdoor recreation, they have crafted an atmosphere as welcoming as their beer is delicious. Collins also is on the Michigan Brewers Guild’s Board and co-founded/chaired its Diversity, Equity and Inclusion          Committee.  “We’re on the precipice of important conversations and it’s really exciting,” Collins says.

   Edward Collazo, City Built Brewing, Grand Rapids
Edwin Collazo, partner/co-founder at City Built Brewing Co., Grand Rapids
Standing out in “Beer City USA” is no easy task, yet the team at City Built has done it. In 2021, it received national recognition from readers of USA Today as one of the best brewpubs in the Midwest and for having one of their favorite can labels. Raised in Ohio by his Puerto Rican parents, Collazo brings the flavors of his childhood to the brewery (Puerto Rico, Cuba, Mexico and Germany). City Built takes full advantage of its proximity to the Grand River and Sixth Street Bridge for hosting innovative events.

“I was always told I am too laid back. Nobody says that to me  anymore. Turns out I am a bit of a type A personality! HA! I   learned that the best leaders attract other leaders and then get out of their way so they can shine in their roles. I believe that most of the success I have enjoyed is because we were able to   attract other talented people and I got out of the way,” Collazo said.


David Ringler, Cedar Springs Brewing, Cedar Springs/Grand Rapids

David Ringler, owner at Cedar Springs Brewing Co., Cedar Springs/Grand Rapids
“Rings” is a seemingly endless resource for breweries across the  state. Few people in the state have immersed themselves deeper in the minutiae of operating a brewery. Have a question about whether dogs are allowed in your brewery? Ask Rings. Need help understanding the Michigan Liquor Control Commission’s regulations on charitable donations? Ask Rings. On top of that, his brewery, which opened its second location, Kusterer Brauhaus, in mid-August, has earned more medals than Michael Phelps’ trophy case. He’s also willing to carve out time to jump in front of a camera – dressed to the hilt, of course – or engage with a group of visitors in the taproom.

Andrea Pernsteiner, co-founder and vice president at Ore Dock Brewing Co., Marquette
This Wisconsin product, who was an engineer by trade prior to    opening Ore Dock in 2012, helped build an environment that’s like a big, warm hug for the community. A bear hug, that is.            Highlighted by its spring festival - the Festival of the Angry Bear - to welcome in the warmer temperatures to the Upper                  Peninsula city, Pernsteiner’s family-friendly, neighborly vibe            continues to elevate Marquette’s reputation as a killer beer            spot. Grab a Berzerker or Beach Bum and enjoy her team’s            handywork.

Linus De Paoli, co-owner at 3 Gatos Brewing Co., Grand Rapids
Contagious enthusiasm best sums up Linus De Paoli, who              opened this new brewery with his wife, Renata, in July, 2021.          Hailing from Brazil, the longtime homebrewing couple delivers a fresh perspective on how Michigan beer can meld the best of flavors from around the world into a uniquely Midwest taste. With beer and food drawing inspiration from Brazil and Germany, 3 Gatos is poised to keep Beer City USA in good standing.

• Jason and Kris Spaulding, Brewery Vivant, Grand Rapids
• Brett VanderKamp, New Holland Brewing Co., Holland
• Joe Short, Short’s Brewing Co., Bellaire
• Dave Engbers, Founders Brewing Co., Grand Rapids
• Carrie Yunker, Bell’s Brewery, Kalamazoo
• John Mallett, Bell’s Brewery, Kalamazoo
• Scott Graham, Michigan Brewers Guild, Lansing
• Eric Briggeman, Rochester Mills Beer Co., Rochester Mills
• Max Trierweiler, Mitten Brewing Co., Grand Rapids
• Scott Newman-Bale, Short’s Brewing Co., Bellaire
• Barb Baker, Fermenta: Michigan Women's Craft Collective, Rochester
• Ron Jeffries, Jolly Pumpkin Artisan Ales/NUBCO, Dexter
• Michael Brower, Joel Kamp and Chad Doane, Pigeon Hill Brewing Co., Muskegon
• John Svboda, B.O.B. Brewing Co., Grand Rapids

• Barry Johnson, Saugatuck Brewing Co., Douglas
• Tim Suprise, Arcadia Brewing Co., Battle Creek
• Aaron and Kristine Morse, Dark Horse Brewing Co., Marshall
• Matt and Rene Greff, Arbor Brewing Co., Ann Arbor
• Fred Bueltmann, New Holland Brewing Co., Holland
• Steve Berthel, The Livery, Benton Harbor
• Chas Thompson, Schmohz Brewing Co., Grand Rapids
• Rex Halfpenny, Michigan Beer Guide
• Larry Bell, Bell’s Brewery, Kalamazoo
• Ed Nash, Arclight Brewing Co., Watervliet
• Scott Freitas, Latitude 42 Brewing Co., Portage

About the author: John Liberty spent nearly a decade as a Michigan newspaper reporter where he helped start a popular Michigan craft beer blog in 2007. He then co-founded the brewery tour company West Michigan Beer Tours in 2013. He joined Millcraft Beverage Solutions as an account manager in early 2022.  He continues to write about Michigan beer.

Updated:  August 2022